As smoke spirals toward the February sky, carrying with it the aroma of roast pig, turkey and buffalo, it could mean only one thing - a feast for carnivores known as the "Critter Dinner."
It's the Dunbar Critter Dinner, the annual meal that invites diners to sample such game fare as frogs' legs, buffalo and alligator.
And this year, crawfish, elk and "mountain oysters" are also on the menu for the Saturday, Feb. 20, meal at the Dunbar Recreation Center on Fairlawn Avenue. The meal starts at noon, and admission is a cash donation or five non-perishable food items.
The food and cash donations will go the Dunbar-Institute Food Pantry, said Bub Jones, acting director of the Dunbar Parks and Recreation Department.
To avoid parking hassles, there will be a bus shuttle service from Shawnee Park to the recreation center.
"KRT is providing a bus starting at about 11:45 a.m.," Jones said.
The Critter Dinner is all about sampling some things you wouldn't ordinarily think about eating, but for those who aren't brave enough to sample some of the more exotic game, there will be some mainstream offerings.
"We're also going to have turkey, and we're going to roast a pig," Jones said.
Those with timid taste buds can also take refuge in such comfort foods as mashed potatoes and green beans. A variety of desserts are also expected to be on hand.
Smokers, deep fryers and grills will be up and running on the day of the meal, with most of the cooking taking place at the recreation center.
"Prep work" takes place a few days leading up to the dinner.
"Everybody volunteers their time," Jones said.
A bluegrass group called Once Blue will provide live entertainment.
The Critter Dinner was started under the administration of Dunbar Mayor Frank Leone and has become an annual tradition. The dinner was on hiatus for a few years, but was started back up in 2002.
"Last year, we had about 700 people, but we've had 1,000 people before," he said.
Community volunteers do the cooking and preparing. Mike Durham has been a volunteer Critter Dinner cook for 10 years.
He said most of the food will be labeled. One such label will read "mountain oysters."
Mountain oysters are "beef testicles that have been sliced and deep fried. They're cut up and breaded. They're actually pretty good. They're beef, and they taste like beef," Durham said.
Durham said preparations for the meal begin the Wednesday before the event.
"We'll cook some of the soups and stews on Friday. We generally do most of the cooking Thursday evening and the Friday before," he said.
The grills will be fired up on the day of the meal to cook elk burgers and other grilled meats, including buffalo.
There will also be buffalo meatloaf and alligator.
"People like the different meats. This year I've got wild boar and elk brisket. We also have regular brisket, fried chicken and ham."
A variety of side dishes will be available, including mashed potatoes, green beans, corn and rolls.
Durham said Tudor's Biscuit World in Dunbar usually donates hundreds of biscuits for the Critter Dinner.
Last year's Critter Dinner was in April, but this year it's back to being a traditional, February event.
"We're hoping for a good turnout," he said.
In an e-mail, Dunbar Mayor Jack Yeager said the Critter Dinner has been around for at least 40 years.
"Originally, the hunters and the fishermen from this community shared their kills and catches with their neighbors and they donated the food," Yeager said.
He said the dinner is a good way to socialize and escape the winter doldrums and to help the Dunbar-Institute Food Pantry.
"Any cash donation or any donation of non-perishable food goes immediately to our Dunbar/Institute Food Pantry. With the demand on this operation increasing, we are looking forward to increasing their storehouse of food and supplies," he said.
Volunteers are still needed to help with the dinner.
"We'd like more volunteers to help set up and decorate on Friday and for serving and tearing down," Jones said.
For more information, call Dunbar Parks & Recreation, 304-766-0223.